Forskning ved Københavns Universitet - Københavns Universitet

Forside

Field observations of nearshore bar formation

Publikation: Bidrag til tidsskriftTidsskriftartikelForskningfagfællebedømt

 

The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.

OriginalsprogEngelsk
TidsskriftEarth Surface Processes and Landforms
Vol/bind33
Udgave nummer7
Sider (fra-til)1021-1032
ISSN0197-9337
DOI
StatusUdgivet - 2008

ID: 8804191